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These kitchens do an excellent job with all the classic meats-al pastor, carnitas and smoky chicken tinga.I've been especially impressed with the hand-pressed sopes, the simple freshness of the marinated shrimp tacos, the crackly crisp tostada rounds, and pretty much anything in the excellent tomatillo-tanged salsa verde.The trophy wall of empty bottles at Sola — Echezeaux, La Tâche, the famous names of Bordeaux — tells the story of an understated but elegant space of linen-draped tables that’s long served as a BYOB destination for a fine meal to accompany wines from the great cellars of the Main Line.It’s changed owners and chefs multiple times since I first reviewed it (remember when it was Spezia? And under current owner Brian Engler and chef Scott Morozin, I recently had one of the best meals I’ve ever had at that address.A fridge stocked with 80 craft brews (plus six on draft) is an added draw for pizza-loving beer geeks.This soaring new version of Midtown Village’s Tredici has brought a sexy new space to a former Bryn Mawr warehouse (in the same complex as La Colombe), with what seems like acres of Carrara marble, herringbone wood floors, whitewashed brick, and a sky-lit wine bar trimmed with ficus trees worthy of the Main Line’s high-style crowd.And it’s true prize is the okonomiyaki, the delicious savory pancake-omelet hybrid streaked with a lattice of tangy dark sauce and Kewpie mayo, plus shaved bonito flakes that seemingly dance atop the surface in the pancake’s heat.

This laid-back cousin to Sean Weinberg’s Restaurant Alba has brought wood-fired Neapolitan pizza and craft beer to a colorful Bryn Mawr corner space, where locals gather around communal tables to savor the heat-blistered pies, veg-forward small plates, and a limited but satisfying selection of moderately-sized entrées and pastas that are well-priced for the neighborhood.

He dry-ages for an extra week a piece of grass-fed New York strip for the tagliata steak to “tenderize the meat and announce its flavor,” serving it over cannellini beans splashed with sweet tang of clove-scented Chianti vincotto.

For dessert, Demontis literally explodes the familiar into its parts, the shards of a cannoli shell layered high in tiers between fluffs of mascarpone and pistachios in a sweet-tart balsamic glaze like some free-form dessert sculpture.

Maido’s is in the Kansai style, with nuggets of pork and shrimp, but also shredded cabbage, scallions, pickled red ginger, and grated nagaimo yam that lend the pancake — mixed and griddled right before you to order — a pliant tenderness and lingering vegetable savor.

This fast-growing chain with roots in the Mexican state of Michoacan has appeared at the perfect moment in our region's Mexican education.

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